A guacho displays some tricks of the trade at San Antonio de Areco

Two hours' northwest of Buenos Aires, San Antonio de Areco is the centre of Argentina's guacho tradition.

But if you've come here expecting to see rugged men galloping through dusty tumbleweed streets, you should hold your horses cowboy, because these days San Antonio de Areco is more of an upmarket, picturesque tourist town and you're more likely to see locals cruising around on bicycles that horses.

San Antonio de Areco is a town of romantic, late-19th century buildings, and is laid out in a grid pattern around a palm-filled main plaza. Several museums celebrate the area's history, while silversmiths, weavers and leatherworkers sell their wares in artisan shops.

On hot days, locals cool off in the Rio Areco or lounge around in the shady riverside park. The tourist office loans out bicycles and this is a lovely way to explore the town.

A number of estancias (traditional farms with grand historic mansions that have since been converted to upmarket hotels) can be found in the countryside around San Antonio de Areco. A double room starts at around US$150. If you don't want to stay the night, most estancias also offer day visits, which includes a display of guacho skills, an asado and horse-riding around the estate. Most estancias can arrange transfers from Buenos Aires.

Every weekend, the main park in San Antonio de Areco hosts performances celebrating guacho traditions, but if you want to see pampas culture in full swing, come here for the Dia de la Tradicion, held in early November. This annual week-long festival offers a display of dancing, music, asados (barbecues) and guacho skills.