We were a group of four--my sister Irene, her boyfriend Jason, my friend Diane and myself--hiking the Na Pali Coast on Kauai three years ago.  Located on the North Shore of the “Garden Isle,” the Kalalau trail is one of the most breathtaking stretches of coastline in the world.  The valley is also reachable by boat or plane, but these modes of transportation are susceptible to the unpredictable changes in climate in this region.  Only hikers can explore the heart of Kalalau valley year-round.

            As usual, I prepared very little for this 4-day, 22-mile roundtrip camping adventure; and, as usual, Irene and Jason orchestrated the whole affair, arranging for the permit required to hike the trail and planning each meal, which included red wine and marinated steak on the first night.  They brought a pot and utensils and evenly distributed the food between the four of us; they even had matching camping pillows and full-length Thermarests. 

            It was January, the month notorious for increased rainfall.  Diane and I were excited to try out her newly purchased, but used, Coleman tent.  The first night went off without a hitch, but as we walked deeper into the valley the weather turned sour and we were stuck hiking in the rain, in the mud, along steep and slippery cliffs.  On the second night, we were forced to camp under a complete downpour.  Diane and I took a cold “shower” in the rain before settling in for a cool, damp, and rather uncomfortable night of sleep.  Irene and Jason’s dome tent remained completely dry. 

            We woke to a pleasant third day--our only full day in the valley.  Kalalau is the kind of place you can easily get lost and lose time in.  There are several hiking trails extending down and up the valley as well as farther along the coast.  Most visitors, however, simply make camp near the ranger station and enjoy a few days of relaxation before heading back out to civilization.  A lush green canopy envelops the entire valley and an enormous steep cliff drops down the south side.  On calm days, a swim around the corner can be a fulfilling adventure.

            We played under multiple waterfalls cascading from the cliffs above; we watched the unforgivingly large surf pound along the shore; we explored the valley, looking for the hidden community of locals and library.  The magic of Na Pali was ours for the taking.  

            Thankfully, not a single drop of rain fell on our long return.  Albeit muddy, the trail was more forgiving on our way back.  We were, however, passed by a young, nimble, barefoot girl holding a Yorkshire terrier.  She disappeared into the jungle, never to be seen again.

            I flew home with a new perspective of the urban civilization that is Honolulu.  Often, Emerson and Thoreau told us once, “Simplify,” and, trapped in the city’s traffic and overpopulation, there doesn’t appear to be a silver lining to this increasingly polluted cloud.  It is, however, very easy to find that silver lining in Kalalau.

FACT BOX:

•   In order to hike the Kalalau trail, you must acquire a permit from the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) as early as possible.  Call (808) 274-3444 for information.

•   Kauai is otherwise called the “Garden Isle” because of its spectacularly lush, tropical setting.  Its green environs are due to increased rainfall during the winter months.  Annual rainfall in this area often reaches 70 inches! 

•   Rain gear is an absolute must no matter what season you choose to visit the Na Pali Coast.  Bringing a used and untested tent is not recommended.

•   The young, barefoot girl we stumbled upon on our return trek was likely a member of the “lost tribe,” a small community of hippies who still reside year-round by hiding deep in Kalalau valley.  The “lost tribe” has little-to-no contact with civilization, but when you visit you will be envious of the beautiful place they call home.