It huffs and it puffs, it dribbles and it rumbles, and at night, everyone oohs and aahs as red hot glowing lava dribbles down its side.

As one of the world´s most active volcanoes, a healthy tourist industry and some of the country´s most opulent hotels have set up shop in Arenal´s shadow.

The last time it really blew its top was in 1968, when it buried a handful of villages. Still, when the clouds part and you gaze upon its perfect conical shape, Arenal appears too tranquillo to hurt a mosquito.

Arenal´s tourist circus is concentrated in the town of La Fortuna, where every man, woman and child seems out to sell you a canopy tour, bungy jump, white-water rafting adventure, lakeside kayak, canyoning escapade or other such eco-adventure. It´s worth shopping around for the best deal. The most popular and worthwhile package tour in the area involves an evening trip to a viewpoint to watch the lava flows followed by a soak in one of the area´s expensive (but oh so worth it) hot springs, where you can nurse an overpriced (but oh so worth it) cocktail while watching Arenal´s pyrotechnics. There´s also a number of free riverside hot springs in the area if you know where to look. Word has it that if you dip into the river just beyond the bridge next to the Tabacon Hot Springs, you´ll score yourself a free 40°C soak. Take care, because the river´s waterflow can be strong and lethal.

Hikers will relish the opportunity to explore the forest and lava fields in the Arenal Volcano National Park. Another nice walk takes you 5.5km south of La Fortuna to a picture-perfect waterfall which plunges into a refreshing natural swimming pool - a godsend after a sweaty hike.

La Fortuna has most of the area´s amenities and restaurants, but if you want a good night´s sleep or to experience any of the magic of the area, our advice is to stay in a hotel that´s well out of town on the road to the bucolic, serene villages of Nuevo Arenal or El Castillo.