The Arenal volcano lets off steam in Costa Rica

Costa Rica - literally ¨rich coast¨ - may have only 0.03% of the world´s landmass, but this speck of land sandwiched between Nicaragua and Panama more than makes up for it by harbouring 5% of the world´s species of flora and fauna. 

Roughly a third of the country is protected as national park or private nature reserve, allowing for easy access to Costa Rica´s sheer megadiversity.

Sweltering tropical forests slither with some of the world´s deadliest snakes; howler monkeys and white-faced capuchins swing from lofty branches; jaguars and pumas stalk vulnerable prey through dense jungle; crocodiles and caimans patrol murky wetlands and mangrove swamps; two-and-three-toed sloths hang like sagging baskets from treetops; gigantic iguanas sunbathe on palm-fringed beaches; Barid´s tapir forage around for a decent feed; cumbersome marine turtles stumble ashore in the dead of night; furry tarantulas lurk inside rotting tree branches; scarlet macaws soar above the canopy line; hummingbirds nest beside brilliant heliconias; blood red poison-dart frogs leap through the undergrowth while making surreal laser-game noises, while 10% of the world´s butterfly species flutter just out of reach.

Volcanoes (many still active) run down Costa Rica´s mountainous spine, and two coastlines - Caribbean and Pacific - provide ample opportunities for water sports and beach bumming.  Floating 535km offshore, the misty, jungle-strewn Isla de Coco rises out of the Pacific ocean, its surrounding waters teeming with schools of hammerhead sharks and providing one of the most exhilirating (and expensive) diving experiences on the planet. 

Most of Costa Rica´s volcanos can be explored on foot with a few allowing visitors to get close enough to stare into their murky sulphurous craters. Irazu, Poas and Turrialba volcanos can all be climbed and visited, but for sheer drama and decadence, you can´t go past the Arenal volanco, which huffs and puffs sulphurous gases while dribbling red hot lava down its perfect cone. Many of the hotels around Arenal have dead-on views of the volcano. At night, tourists enjoy watching Arenal´s pyrotechnics while soaking - cocktail in hand - in one of the area´s lavish hot springs. 

Costa Rica has long been considered one of the world´s premier eco-tourism destinations. But the times they are a changing. As North American baby boomers retire and flock south in search of warmer climes and cheaper healthcare, they are altering the very fabric of Costa Rican society. Costa Ricans (who refer to themselves as ¨Ticos¨) are fast selling up prime waterfront land to wealthy foreigners. Mega-tourism (the enemy of eco-tourism) is on the rise, especially along the Pacific coast. The likes of Jaco, Hermosa, Flamingo and Tamarindo - once sleepy surf towns - are now exploding with gated Gringo communities, high-rise condos and massive resort developments.  

Still, it´s not impossible to get off the beaten track in Costa Rica, and if you´re after an authentic and isolated nature experience, then Tortuguero National Park in the country´s northeast, the Osa Peninsula in the southwest and the Cano Negro Refuge near the border with Nicaragua can deliver in spades. Community-based rural tourism is also on the rise, allowing travellers a glimpse into the lifestyle of Costa Rican farmers and villagers.

Costa Rica lies between eight and 11 degrees north of the equator. The humidity can be unbearable along both the Pacific and Caribbean coastlines as well as in the tropical lowlands. The verdant, coffee-rich Central Valley and Highlands region is signifcantly cooler, and charming villages such as Orosi (near the city of Cartago) and Rosario de Naranjo (near the town of Grecia) are a wonderful step back into the Costa Rica of yesteryear. 

Survival guide

Costa Ricans enjoy a higher standard of living than other Central American countries. This translates into higher travel costs and in some touristy areas, don´t be surprised to see prices on par with North America. Many hotels quote prices in US dollars, and while dollars are widely accepted, you´ll need colones - the local currency - to catch buses, shop in supermarkets and eat in most small sodas or restaurants.  

Spanish is the official language, and while many people speak some English in San Jose and in prime tourist destinations, you´ll want to know at least a few words Spanish to negotiate your way around restaurants and buses. If in doubt, just smile and say ¨Pura Vida¨ (pure life), an overused national expression which means everything from ¨hello¨ to ¨isn´t the weather glorious today¨.  It never fails to raise a smile from Ticos! Along the Caribbean coast English is widely spoken by Afro-Caribbeans who are of Jamaican descent. 

If sunny weather is a priority, the best time to travel in Costa Rica is in the dry season between December and April. On the flip side, during these months the country is swarming with Americans taking refuge from the northern winter. Prices are also at their peak during the dry season. During the rainy or ¨green¨ season (as the Costa Rica Tourist Board likes to describe it) between May and November, you can expect to pay up to 40% less for accommodation and activities. During this period, the countryside is verdant, the national parks and buses are less crowded, the restaurants more tranquillo and it is usually not necessary to book accommodation in advance. During the rainy season, however, mosquitoes are more prevalent and there are more likely to be outbreaks of dengue fever, especially on the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. While morning are usually sunny, more often than not, the afternoons are rainy and accompanied by electrical storms. 

Costa Rica is the safest country in Central America to travel around, and while theft (especially of cars) is on the rise, it is nowhere near the levels of its neighbours and violent crime is extremely rare. In the past year, a specially trained group of ´´tourist police¨ have been positioned in popular tourist haunts, including Jaco and La Fortuna.

The Costa Rica Tourism Board has issued the following tips for tourists on how to have a safe vacation:

• Always carry a copy of your passport and keep the original in the safety deposit box of your hotel, along with your money, jewelry and other valuable objects.
  
• When doing bank transactions, you must present your original passport. Use only banks or authorized agencies for exchanging your money.
  
• Use automatic teller machines located in public and well illuminated places. Be careful of any offer of help or of strangers when using the machines; withdraw the cash and count it before going outside.
• Keep all your goods in sight and reach. If you use public transportation, always keep an eye on them.
• When using taxi services, verify that they comply with the legal established requirements, such as the yellow triangles printed on the doors and a metre. Always ask the staff at your hotel to call a taxi from a reliable company.
  
• If you are lost and in need of checking your map, look for a public and safe place to do it, or recur to the police authorities for help.
  
• While driving or parking your car, lock the doors and keep the windows closed. Do not leave your personal belongings inside the vehicle.
  
• If you ge a flat tire, if you are suspiciously warned of a damage, if you are suspiciously hit from behind or if you are being followed while driving, do not stop and immediately look for the police or dial 911 when possible.
  
• Avoid stopping when a stranger asks you for a ride.
• The sexual exploitation of minors is a crime punished by the law.
  

Juan Santamaria is Costa Rica's main international gateway and lies just outside of the capital of San Jose.