Split is much more than just a jumping off point for Croatia's islands

Croatia's second-largest city, the seaside hub of Split offers far more than just a jumping off point for exploring the Dalmatian coast.

Most travellers will see little more than its buzzing ferry, bus and train terminals bunched together on the harbourfront.

But venture a few hundred metres down the road to the waterfront Riva area and the charms of Split's compact old town begin to unfold.

Dominating the palm-lined waterfront is the crumbling ancient walls of the 3rd century Diocletian's Palace - the ostentatious retirement home of a Roman emperor with particularly lavish taste. The vast complex - replete with open-air temples, a mausoleum, royal residence and underground chambers - is considered the most impressive Roman ruins in Europe.

The labyrinth of marble-paved streets around the palace make up Split's old town. They are abuzz with shops, eateries and spacious squares made for alfresco latte-sipping and people-watching. For further alfresco dining, ice-cream-licking, bar-hopping and promenade-preening with an ocean backdrop, head to the harbourfront Riva area - the city's laid-back social hub.

To the east of the Diocletian's Palace, a colourful outdoor fruit, vegetable and flower market allows you to stock up on essential vitamins.

Split's main beach, Bacvice, lies just east of the old town; while you won't escape the crowds here, it remains the best place to cool off on a sweltering summer's day.

Split is the main jumping off point for the islands of the Dalmatian Coast. From its port, regular summer ferries and hydrofoils ply the coast south to the islands of Hvar, Korcula, Vis, Solta, Lastovo and Brac and to the walled city of Dubrovnik on the southern tip of mainland Croatia.

Ferries also strike north from here to Zadar, Rab and Rijeka and international services also connect Split with Bari and Ancona in Italy as well as Igoumenitsa in northwestern Greece. Frequent trains connect Split with Zagreb in the north, while buses leave all the time for just about every destination in the country as well as a variety of international destinations.

From Split, the hair-raising coastal road that heads south to Dubrovnik is a real stunner. Winding for the most part along the edge of a cliff, it affords unbeatable mountain and coastal views.