Street scene in Santiago de Cuba.

Photo: Steve Woodhall

There's one word you should know before you step onto Cuban soil. It's jineterismo (pronounced hineterismo), and it's all about hustling. You'll soon find that there are gradations of jineterismo, from a thinly-disguised form of begging, to ordinary prostitution, to the relaxed, intelligent approach taken by the true masters. This is what happens: you settle into your accommodation and emerge blinking onto the streets of Havana. People are really friendly. Someone invites you for a drink at the bar on the corner. You're laughing, drinking, eating and generally having a great time mixing with the locals. After a while you realize that you are paying for everything and are expected to do so into the night. Get wise, or your personal transfer of wealth into the Cuban economy will quickly ruin you. Then again, there's no need to be too guarded (see the Hook up with a jinetero section).

Cuba has its share of retro east-bloc hotels with dodgy plumbing but the best bet is to stay in people's homes. A home with paying guest rooms is called a casa particular. There is a well-regulated system in place, so it's generally safe and easy. This way, you'll see a variety of living styles and there will always be people on hand to wash your clothes or rustle up a bicycle. Some families clearly like to keep their private lives separate, while others will treat you like an old friend. If you'd really rather stay in a hotel, you can now go right up to five stars.

Intrepid travelers (preferably with a bit of Spanish) can use local transport systems but nipping across the country is a lot easier on the Viazul tourist buses. They are a comfortable, air-conditioned and efficient way to get around. If you've got time, start in Havana and head east for Santiago de Cuba on the other side of the island, with stopovers on the way.

As for money, there are two currencies to think about: the local peso and the convertible peso which for all intents and purposes is equivalent to the US dollar. Make sure you're always operating with convertible pesos (don't worry, it's easy). Take Euros, British pounds or basically any currency other than the US dollar, which the Cuban government discourages and always exchange money at banks or official bureaus (never on the street).

Don't expect to load up your luggage with "ethnic finds" or cheap interesting goods - they're just not there. Anyway, this is a time for you to take a rest-break from the relentless consumerism of capitalism. That said, musical instruments, screen-printed posters (in funky '70s style) and wonderful paintings make unique acquisitions. When you're "exporting" Cuban art you have to make sure you have a proper certificate of sale - the gallery will generally see to this bit of bureaucracy.

Do pack lots of sunscreen, a hat and cover-up clothes - the sun here is harsh. Also take a small stock of pens, paper and soap and maybe little souvenirs of your home country to give as gifts, especially to children.

You've heard of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara, but it might help if you find out a little about Jose Marti, the third man in the national trinity. Marti was a 19th century poet and journalist who rode into his first battle with the Spanish on a white horse and died within minutes. Poet, white horse, early death: an unbeatable combination for romantic revolutionaries. There are busts of Marti looking thoughtfully at the ground just about everywhere.

Most people you encounter will speak at least "tourist English" but learning a bit of Spanish will deepen your experience or at least cause some smiles. If you like coffee with milk in it, café con leche is a handy phrase, to be used with por favor (please) and gracias (thank you). Start the whole thing with buenos días (good morning) and you're ready for the day.

The United States has banned its citizens from travelling to Cuba without government permission. To get around the trade embargo, many Americans fly to Cuba from Mexico, Canada or other countries in the Caribbean.

Cuba has 11 international airports. The main gateways to Cuba are Aeropuerto Internacional Jose Marti in Havana, Aeropuerto Juan Gualberto Gomez in Varadero and Aeropuerto Antonio Maceo in Santiago de Cuba. Cuba's national airline is Cubana de Aviacion.