Chaotic Cairo is a lively mix of ancient and modern

Photo: Graeme Israel

On the surface, Cairo is everything you might expect of a city of 16 million people crammed into a relatively tiny area: chaotic, dirty and overburdened.

But look beyond the hassles of Egypt's frenetic capital and you'll discover a lively melting pot of ancient traditions and bustling modernity.

Of course, no visit to Cairo would be complete without gaping in awe at its resident wonder of the world - the Great Pyramid of Giza. And while a visit here is not to be missed, Cairo is much more than just a one-trick camel.

Second stop on many travellers' itineraries is the fabulous Egyptian Museum, home to a significant chunk of Egypt's ancient artifacts. Despite the poorly maintained displays, a visit here is essential. Highlights include the real Rosetta Stone, the gilded loot of Tutankhamen's tomb, and the disturbingly well-preserved mummified pharaohs. Although once revered as Gods, their blackened bodies are now laid sacrilegiously in glass containers for all to see. Look closely enough and you might just see them slowly turning in their graves.

Cairo also boasts many stunning mosques; the Mohammed Ali Mosque is notable for its unequalled views of the city. The quaint churches and the Ben Ezra Synagogue of Coptic Cairo are also worth a visit.

If time permits, lose yourself in the souq (markets) of Khan al-Khalili, where you'll find more smooth-talking salesmen than at a used-car convention.