A friendly face at Makola market in Accra

Photo: Graham Simmons

They said it could never happen – a peaceful democratic transition in West Africa. But the commentators were wrong.

Six years ago saw the swearing in as prime minister of the former opposition leader John Kufuor, with the outgoing Prime Minister Jerry Rawlings unexpectedly gracious in defeat.

But then, Ghana is different.

It’s peak hour in downtown Accra, the Ghanaian capital. Despite the temporary gridlock at Nkrumah Circle there is no road rage and no uncool, and an unearthly feeling of calm prevails. On the footpath, pedestrians are politeness personified, excusing themselves as they pass. No one hassles the visitor, there are very few beggars and not a soul is poorly dressed.

Then your nostrils suddenly do a 540º swivel turn, trying to escape the foul odor of the dung of some fortunately unknown creature. This is, after all, still West Africa. There is still dirt. The equator still equates, making day and night seamlessly steamy. And everywhere can be heard the pulsating, happy beat of Afro music, from shopfronts, balcony bands and a million car stereos.

It must be stated at the outset that Ghana is still a do-it-yourself destination. There is a bare modicum of tourist infrastructure and few reliable tour operators, and a lot of time is needed just to cope with the basics of getting around and getting lodged/fed. While this necessitates a longer stay than might otherwise be called for, it can also lead to some delightfully serendipitous encounters.

Survival Guide

Ghanaians speak a bewildering variety of tribal languages including Ga, Éwé and Akan. But the good news is that the common language, spoken almost universally, is English in various degrees of elaboration.

Ghana's tropical climate can be oppressive, with wet seasons from March to July and from October to November in the south. The north has one wet season, from April to July. The hot, dry harmattan wind from November to March fills the air with dust, sometimes reducing visibility to a few metres. During the wet seasons, the atmosphere is so sultry-sticky that you can nearly grab handfuls of air and wring the moisture out. The best months to visit are April through to October.

Most visitors require a visa. These are theoretically obtainable upon arrival at Accra International Airport, but it is better to get a visa in advance.

After years of inflation, the Ghanaian Cedi (GHC) was replaced in July 2007 with the New Cedi (GHS). In November 2007, the GHS was virtually on a par with the US dollar, having actually appreciated over the previous five months.

The best choice for getting around is the comfortable (and often air-conditioned) buses run by the State Transport Corporation (STC). Buses to Cape Coast depart from the NW terminal on Ring Road West, Accra, at 7:45, 8:15, 9:30 and 10:45 am, and to Kumasi at 7:15, 8:00, 9:00 and 10:30 am. It’s essential to arrive at least an hour before departure.

For the east of Ghana, comfortable share taxis leave regularly from Kinbu Road in Accra for Aflao, on the Ghana/Togo border. The trip takes about 2½-3 hours, depending on whether the driver is a mere speed freak or a total maniac. The one-way fare is about $2.