The iconic Parthenon crowns Athens' Acropolis

Despite its resplendent history and expensive facelift in the lead-up to the 2004 Olympics, mountain-ringed Athens remains of one Europe's least enticing cities.

Home to four million people, it is a sprawling, congested, noisy, crowded, polluted and chaotic modern city that does little justice to its glorious Mycenaean, Ottoman, Roman and Byzantine past.

The Acropolis dominates the city skyline - a stark, sun-bleached reminder of Greece's glory days and an architectural masterpiece that has come to symbolize the inception of Western civilization. The iconic Parthenon crowns this impressive complex which also takes in the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia (or former gates) and a museum.

Close to the Acropolis is the Temple of Olympian Zeus as well as the ruins of Agora - ancient Athens' social and commercial hub and the one-time stomping ground of Socrates and St Paul. Anthens' main ancient sites are conveniently linked by a 3km promenade.

It would be criminal to visit Athens and miss the National Archaeological Museum, housing the best collection of ancient Greek artifacts in the world. Of particular note here are the Mycenaean treasures and Minoan frescoes from Santorini.

Athens certainly has neighbourhoods with enough charm to keep you in town for a few days. Northeast of the Acropolis, the touristy Plaka district - Athens's old Turkish area - is a great place for alfresco dining and browsing shops in its cobblestone back streets.

Makrigianni is Athens' lively gay district, while in upmarket Kolonaki, boutiques and eateries jostle for uber-chic customers. If you're in town over Athens' sweltering summer, getting to the ocean will no doubt be high on your list of priorities; there are some good beaches around the suburb of Glyfada, although you'll have to pay for the privilege of sitting on most of the Athens' sandy stretches.

Athens' port, Pireaus, is the place to catch a ferry to the Greek islands.