Orchha is home to ancient palaces and temples. Picture: Graeme Israel

Orchha is a fairytale playground of ancient palaces, temples and cenotaphs, all within walking distance of the town.

Wandering between them is a magical experience, though it can be disheartening to witness the squalid state of this tiny, tourist-geared town, living in the shadows of what was clearly once a very wealthy empire.

For pampering fit for a royal, splash out on a suite in the Sheesh Mahal Hotel, conveniently located in a wing of the main palace.

Orchha is situated four hours south of Agra, with trains arriving at nearby Jhansi.