A Victoria Crowned Pigeon in Papua

Harsh, impenetrable jungle, swamps and soaring peaks characterize Papua, the western half of New Guinea.

But it is precisely this difficult terrain that has preserved Papua and its culture. In the Baliem Valley you can still meet people living in a traditional lifestyle, making their homes in small wood, straw and mud huts. Missionaries have made deep inroads but indigenous people still cling to their traditional beliefs.

Try to visit during festival time when you'll see mock battles, colorful outfits, dancing and possibly fire-walking (walking on hot coals). Festivals are held at various times during the year, although the best is the Baliem Festival in mid-August.

The truly intrepid will head for the Asmat region in southern Papua. A huge area of swamps and rivers, most of it is completely inaccessible to anyone except bona fide Indiana Jones-types. Here you will meet the Asmat people, tree worshippers known for their extraordinary woodcraft.

Anyone planning a visit requires plenty of time and money; the going is slow and the lack of infrastructure means visitors end up having to charter their own transport.