A religious Jew prays as day breaks over Masada

As the Holy Land for four of the world's monotheistic faiths, Israel was always destined to oscillate between tourist hot spot and Middle East trouble spot.

Unless you plan to spend significant time in the Palestinian Territories, as a tourist in Israel you're unlikely to notice let alone be affected by the ongoing conflict.

With its Mediterranean climate, ancient cities, notorious biblical sites, archaeological treasures, verdant mountains, world-class museums, modern metropolises, vast desertscapes, pumping beach resorts and underwater wonders, Israel packs everything you could want from a holiday destination into its coveted slither of land.

The ongoing conflict with Palestinians and its other Arab neighbours (referred to by Israelis simply as "the situation" or "hamatzav") has seen a number of benefits for tourists: prices are down, crowds are thin to non-existent and the usually gruff Israelis are so thankful for business, travellers will often be treated like the long-awaited Messiah.

A maddening and magical country, getting under Israel's skin requires time, an open mind and a sense of adventure.

Volunteering on a kibbutz (an agriculturally-based socialist-style communal settlement) is perhaps the best way to immerse yourself in traditional Israeli life. If it's a spiritual quest you're on, book yourself into a yeshiva in Jerusalem's Old City or get swept up in the secrets of kabbalah in the mystical hilltop town of Safed.

For a more active holiday, you could cavort with dolphins in Eilat's coral-rich Red Sea, bust some moves at an all-night trance party in the Negev desert or hike to the Crusader castle of Montfort in the lush Galilee valley. Biblical buffs won't want to miss the ancient desert fortress of Masada, the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem or Elijah's Cave in Haifa.

For some serious retail therapy, haggle to your heart's content at the markets of Tel Aviv and Jaffa, gorge on felafel at a Jerusalem street stall or splash out on a mud treatment at a Dead Sea spa.

However you conquer the land of milk and honey, your experience in this most modern of ancient lands will be anything but dull.

Survival guide to Israel