It's not hard to be overwhelmed by Mexico's sprawling capital

At the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic centre is the impressive main square or zocalo, an Aztec ceremonial site that was paved over by the Spanish conquistadors and is now home to the presidential palace, the federal government's office, a grand if slightly wonky cathedral and, invariably, some kind of free concert or political protest in the middle of it all.

Beyond this, each district has its own flavour and appeal, whether it's mingling with the beautiful people in the bars of swanky Condesa, trawling the clubs in the louche Zona Rosa, watching the wrestling in rough and ready Doctores or joining the crowds of local families for a Sunday afternoon cruise around the canals of Xochimilco - wherever you go though, be wise, keep your wits about you and you won't become a crime statistic.

Must-sees include the magical treasures of the Anthropological Museum, or for a dose of pre-Hispanic civilisation in situ, take a day trip out to the Aztec pyramids of Teotihuacán.

For modern art fans, the capital is a treasure trove: Frida Kahlo's Blue House offers a fascinating insight into the life of this iconic artist, while several famous murals by her husband and contemporary Diego Rivera can be seen for free in public buildings, depicting Mexican history and culture in both its glory and its shame.