Surfing the 'Mexican pipeline' at Puerto Escondido

Yet while the tourists are only just beginning to trickle back to the state capital, the rest of this southern state, safe, peaceful and unaffected by the troubles, has more than enough to keep visitors busy.

On the coast, boho beach towns like Puerto Angel, Zipolite and Mazunte offer a laidback alternative to high-rise resorts like Cancun or Acapulco - thrill-seeking surfers are drawn to the challenge of the 'Mexican pipeline' at Puerto Escondido, though anyone merely in search of some quality hammock time can find it cheaply and in abundance.

Travelling inwards and upwards, the state offers spectacularly lush mountain scenery, and another option for getting away from it all: exploring the Sierra Norte cloudforest and staying in a yu'u, a simple villager-owned cabin that rewards those heading off the beaten track with a uniquely 'local' Mexican experience.