Swagger through Morocco on ''the ship of the desert''.

The road east from Agadir takes you past the film studios of Ourzazate (Cleopatra, Black Hawk Down) to the site of the Berber village where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed.

Drive on and escape the head-baking heat in one of the many fine restaurants. Enjoy a cool drink of water - you will badly need it. After lunch, drive on and on and on across deserted plains and rocky outcrops. Eventually you arrive at the end of the road - a small Berber town called M'Hamid which hasn't seen rain in 10 years. Algeria is 20 miles away over a few sand dunes. The heat is so intense it is like the blast of heat you get when opening your oven door. And that's at night when it's cool.

Your guides will meet you and escort you to your next mode of transport - the ship of the desert.

Camel riding isn't for everyone but it is manageable, even if it is a constant battle against sliding down the camel's arse and avoiding a good kicking.

After a two-hour camel trek swaggering and swaying through the desert, you arrive at your accommodation for the night - a desert encampment surrounded by sand dunes. Night falls like a stone so take the opportunity to grab some quick photos of your silhouetted friends.

In the evening the guides prepared the tastiest food you will ever lock lips with - fresh fruit salad followed by a cous cous dish and beer. Then the multi-talented guides produced a stunning array of musical instruments and entertain you until the day catches up with you and you collapse exhausted into your outdoor bed.

While you can take this tour from Ourzazate or Zagora, it's cheaper if you make your own way there.