Sandboarding down the dunes is the perfect way to waste a day in the Hokianga.

The road heading north to the Hokianga snakes through the lush Waipoua Kauri Forest before rounding a bend and unveiling the sparkling Hokianga Harbour.

The Hokianga is an unspoilt area on the North Island's west coast, the domain of mountainous yellow sand dunes, deep blue ocean and dense green forest all protected from the roaring sea by sandbars.

What with the spectacular surrounds and the uber-friendly locals, it's impossible not to plug into Hokianga's chilled-out vibe.

Most people base themselves at the low-key resort towns of Opononi or Omapere or just across the water at the lovely settlement of Rawene.

In the summer of 1955-56, Opononi was the one-time home of a wild bottlenose dolphin named Opo who swam with humans and performed tricks with balls. Her every move was documented by national and international media with an obsession afforded nowadays to the likes of Paris Hilton, and Opo can be credited with sparking an eco-consciouness in Kiwis that is still prevalent today. Sadly, Opo died in mysterious circumstances. The town still capitalizes on her memory with a prominent statue and museum.

For the young or just the young at heart, sandboarding down the soft, hot sand dunes across the harbour from Opononi is a wonderful way to waste a few hours. By shooting down the slope at the right speed, it's possible to skim across the ocean at the bottom.

The Hokianga also has some good coastal and forest walks as well as horse riding trails. In the summer there is a popular twilight tour offered to the Waipoua Kauri Forest where you can learn about the forest's Maori significance and hug 2000-year-old Tane Mahuta, New Zealand's largest kauri tree.

Hokianga is a top spot to bunker down for a few days - rent a private bach (Kiwi holiday house), kick back on the deck and mutter "how's that serenity?"