TRAVEL GUIDES

Two hours' northwest of Buenos Aires, San Antonio de Areco is the centre of Argentina's guacho tradition.

But if you've come here expecting to see rugged men galloping through dusty tumbleweed streets, you should hold your horses cowboy, because these days San Antonio de Areco is more of an upmarket, picturesque tourist town and you're more likely to see locals cruising around on bicycles that horses.

Just north of Accra in the hills in the suburb of Legon, lies the cool campus of University of Ghana.

The second largest city in the country, Kumasi lies a sweltering 500 kilometres north of the equator and 250km northwest of Accra.

The city's fragrant, blossoming surrounds have also earned it the reputation as the ''Garden City''.  

About thirty minutes by road west of Cape Coast, Elmina is said to have been the first European settlement in West Africa, though (like Cape Coast) it was founded with decidedly ulterior motives, as a centre for the slave trade.

West of Accra, the World Heritage sites of the Central Coast of Ghana are easily accessible.

Tracks branching off the main road from Accra to Cape Coast lead to a whole string of waterfront resorts, such as White Sands Beach Resort and Tills Number One Beach Hotel (both at the little town of Winneba).

These resorts - inexpensive and with good amenities - make a great alternative to the hectic pace of Accra.

In downtown Accra, the visitor can walk anywhere without fear, day or night.

The much-touted slogan that Ghanaians are among the friendliest people on earth seems to be true – but it is a friendship both spontaneous and undemanding. Coming from other West African countries, where theft and confidence tricks are rife, the visitor is likely to find this a most pleasant surprise.

They said it could never happen – a peaceful democratic transition in West Africa. But the commentators were wrong.

Six years ago saw the swearing in as prime minister of the former opposition leader John Kufuor, with the outgoing Prime Minister Jerry Rawlings unexpectedly gracious in defeat.

But then, Ghana is different.