The Li River has been inspiring artists for generations

If you want to track down that watercolour landscape of molar-like hills, lazy rivers and standing oarsman from the reproduction parchments hanging on the walls of your local Chinese takeaway, the Li River is the place to go.

The river begins to take on its scenic splendour around the city of Guilin - some 400km northeast of the Vietnamese border - along a stretch of river that has inspired painters and poets for generations.

The best way to enjoy the river is to take a cruise downstream from Guilin, past paddy fields, wallowing buffalo and cormorant fishermen - who train the birds to pluck fish out of the water for them.

Most cruises go all the way to the easygoing market town of Yangshuo, a likeable and popular independent travellers' base for excursions on foot or bike into the pretty surrounding countryside.