Even the most jaded traveler can't help but be swept up by the magic of Cartagena.
Oozing romance, the old city is a warren of cobblestone streets that meander between pastel-painted mansions.
Each turn of a corner reveals bougainvillea-covered balconies, sun-bleached walls and the sounds of cumbia or vallenato crackling from old radios.
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Impossibly beautiful women flutter past with flowers tucked into their hair while young men whisper emerald deals in the shop fronts.
There is no doubt that Cartagena is a tourist town and you must go there with the knowledge that prices are inflated and everyone has something to sell, but if you can get beyond that it's a truly magnificent place to explore for a few days.
Spending a few pesos more than your usual allowance will make a big difference in your perspective on the city.
Base yourself in the pricier El Centro and enjoy a decent meal at one of the candlelit old city restaurants. There are some great open-air cafés around the Plaza Santo de Domingo.