Filthy Naples looks out to Mount Vesuvius

Chaotic, noisy, polluted, smelly, lawless, down-at-heel and utterly maddening, Naples appears to have more in common with Delhi or Cairo than other Italian cities.

But Napoli's anarchy is precisely what makes it so damn exhilarating. No other Italian city makes you feel as alive - or as close to death - as you dodge speeding cars, thundering motorbikes and screeching trucks every time you leave the pavement.

Don't assume you'll be safe on the pavement either; if you aren't fending off would-be pickpockets or dodging flying eggs chucked by delinquent children (or if you're extremely unlucky, far more lethal ammunition from Mafia shoot-outs), you'll be sidestepping a roaring Vespa as it merrily mows its way past you.

Stretched around the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius looming in the distance, Naples makes a good base for exploring the beautiful Amalfi Coast, the A-list vacation island of Capri and the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

You'd want to spend at least a day getting to know Naples itself, stopping every couple of hours to gorge on the world's finest pizza (it was, after all, invented here) plucked piping hot from a wood-fire oven and drenched in olive oil.

The narrow streets of Naples' old centre make for an atmospheric ramble, crammed as they are with crumbling Gothic churches, delectable eateries, jewelry shops and shady characters huddled around piles of burning furniture.

Naples' world-famous archaeological museum, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, features an outstanding collection of Graeco-Roman artifacts including a cornucopia of discoveries from Pompeii. Be sure to check out its Secret Room featuring ancient pornography and a brothel "menu".

If Naples' insanity is taking its toll, catch the funicular to Vomero, the well-heeled and blissfully peaceful residential district located just above the city centre. As well as having a great selection of shops and restaurants, it is home to a star-shaped 14th century fortress, Castel Sant'Elmo, which affords the best views of Naples - come here at sunset for some sensational holiday snaps.