Coimbra - "Portugal's Oxford".

Photo: António Sacchetti

Known as "the Oxford of Portugal", Coimbra's prestigious university is the heart and soul of this hilly little city. Lying on the banks of the River Mondego, the 13th century Velha Universidade overlooks Coimbra and is still attended by black-caped students.

Beneath it, Coimbra's narrow, walled old city streets are filled with medieval archways, museums, cathedrals and terrific shops.

The restaurants in Coimbra are cheap and cheerful and during term time, the nightlife is especially lively. The mournful strains of Coimbra-style fado (even more depressing than the Lisbon variety) waft from dimly-lit fado houses and the city hosts an annual fado festival in May.

Portugal's most impressive Roman ruins, Conimbriga, lie only 15km from town.