Delve below the surface in Thailand

The first-time visitor to Thailand is liable to suffer from sensory overload. The visitor is confronted by a mixture of serenity and frenzied movement, ancient tradition and mind-boggling modernity, stunningly beautiful gardens and overflowing rubbish tips – a constant stream of near-inexplicable contrasts.

But initial glimpses of Thailand hardly begin to convey the flavour of this astonishing kaleidocountry. Get out of the capital Bangkok. Travel around the countryside, visit national parks and forest hermitages, chill out on resort islands and wonder at the ruins of ancient cities. These and a thousand other things to see and do are what make Thailand totally unique.

After a long-haul flight from Europe, North America or Down Under, new arrivals in Thailand will probably want to rest up in its full-on but visitor-friendly capital, Bangkok. 

When you eventually make the break from Bangkok, there are many options for further exploring. Thailand’s beaches and islands (see breakout box “Best beaches and islands”) are justly world-famous. Upcountry (heading north), options include visiting the hill-tribes of the northwest, cruising the Mekong river on the border with Laos and/or visiting the little-known Isaan region, in the far northeast of the country.

Survival guide

Wat Phra Nang Sang temple on the island of Phuket

Thailand boasts a tropical climate, with an average annual temperature of 83°F. The summers (March through May) are hot, while the rainy season (June to September) is damp but often sunny. In winter, (October through February) temperatures are cool and quite comfortable. The best months to visit Thailand, particularly its islands and beaches, are from November through to late March

Thai can be a baffling language, with five tones and written in an “indecipherable” script, and often spoken with deadpan inscrutability. Learning a few words is recommended, and not too difficult – listen to the audio files at http://www.seasite.niu.edu/Thai/

The currency is Thai Baht (THB). There  are about 32 Baht to the US dollar.

There are a number of transport options for exploring Thailand. Bangkok’s new Metro system is fast and efficient. Long-distance air-con Government buses are fast and comfortable. Nok Air, a subsidiary of Thai Airways, is the most reliable domestic budget airline, flying from Bangkok to nine destinations including Chiang Mai, Phuket and Krabi.

Accommodations are for all budgets – and some of the cheaper options such as beach bungalows are often the best. Thailand is one country where “budget accommodation” doesn’t have to mean a stuffy, overcrowded backpacker dorm.