Waiting for the catch of the day

Trussed-up pigs struggle vainly as they are sped along on the backs of motorcycles, the conical hats of women labouring in rice paddies bob bewitchingly up and down, while the clothing worn by ethnic minorities in tranquil hilltop villages create brilliant splashes of colour.

Vietnam is a captivating country and an assault on the senses. Located in Southeast Asia, its sheer diversity is astounding: it is a land of long white sand beaches and unexploded mines, of serene Buddhist temples and pot hole-ridden roads. Vietnam has 13 national parks, a glut of museums and UNESCO World Heritage sites and one of the world's most beautiful coastlines.

Extending 1,600 kilometres along the east coast of the Indochinese Peninsula down to the Gulf of Thailand, Vietnam shares its border with China in the north, Laos in the west and Cambodia to the southwest.

A nation of 82 million people, over the past two decades Vietnam has opened its doors to trade and tourism with the West, and the friendliness, warmth and lack of bitterness demonstrated towards foreigners surprises and humbles all who visit.

Vietnam has had a turbulent history. It was ruled by China's Han dynasty for nearly a thousand years until about 1000AD. The French colonized Vietnam in 1884, leaving in 1954 when the country was torn in two. The Vietnam War (known in Vietnam as the American War) began almost 10 years later; the country was shattered by the time US troops withdrew in 1973. Only in 1975 when the Communist north invaded the south was Vietnam unified.

Survival Guide

Boats bob in Ha Long Bay

Vietnam's climate is regarded as 'tropical monsoon', but the country's five main regions all have distinct weather patterns. Typhoons usually hit between July and November, affecting the central and northern areas. Overall, the best months to visit are from late September to December as well as March and April. The heat in Vietnam can come as a shock, especially when you first arrive, so take it easy and drink plenty of water.

Before heading to Vietnam, make an appointment with a travel doctor as it is essential to have some inoculations. Depending on where in the country you plan to visit and the time of year, it might be necessary to take a course of malaria tablets.

In Vietnam, don't drink the tap water or eat anything which may have been washed in water. Eat freshly-cooked food and fruit that you have peeled yourself.

Western visitors will find accommodation, transport and food extremely cheap. It is an extremely poor nation; the average monthly wage ranges from US$15 to $50.

Bicycles and motorbikes are the main mode of transport and can easily be rented. Take out insurance, invest in a helmet and be aware that many highways are not in good repair and road safety in general leaves a lot to be desired.

Crossing the road in the main cities might initially frighten - indeed terrify - the first-time visitor. Walk very slowly and confidently, do not change direction or speed and the vehicles will pass around you. The safest option is to wait for locals to appear and cross with them.

Transport within Vietnam is cheap, but always reach a firm price with the driver prior to the trip if you are travelling by taxi, cyclo or motorbike taxi. The national air carrier is Vietnam Airlines.

Vietnamese is not an easy language to get your tongue around. Learn a few basic words before you go and your efforts will be rewarded.