Storm clouds brew above the beach in Montezuma during Costa Rica´s ¨green season¨

The secret´s long been out about Montezuma. Waterfall pools, jungle-fringed surf beaches and rocky coves beckon bohemians, beach bums and the occasional Hollywood beauty to this tiny beachside town. 

Once the exclusive domain of wacked out hippies and those in the know, Montezuma is now one of the most visited beach towns in Costa Rica. Despite the logistical difficulties involved in getting here (choose from a long bus ride from San Jose; flight to Tambor and then taxi transfer; arduous ferry journey and bus link from Puntarenas; or pricey boat-taxi ride from Jaco), year-round, travellers arrive here by the bus and boat-load.

Still, Montezuma has not become a victim of its own success and it has managed to retain a friendly, laid-back village vibe. 

There´s not much to the town itself - a tight cluster of pricey restaurants, bars, hotels, supermarkets and tour outlets - and it takes less than 10 minutes to walk its length and breadth.   

Just northeast of town lies the sprawling Playa Montezuma, a mustard-sand surf beach. If you keep walking along the beach past the rocky headland you´ll come to PlayaGrande , a lovely secluded beach with tidal pools and an oceanside waterfall. 

There´s plenty to do in around Montezuma to keep you occupied for a week or so. Hiking, horse-riding and zip-line canopy tours abound, and daily yoga classes are offered at a couple of the local hotels. Natural waterfall pools a 20 minutes walk south of town are the best place to cool off around these parts.

The most popular day tour from Montezuma is to Isla Tortuga, a stunning small island ringed by white sand beaches and turquoise ocean that is perfect for snorkeling. While away the day playing beach volleyball, kayaking the coastline, walking in the forest or snuggling up beneath a coconut palm with a good book .

Ten kilometres south of Montezuma at the southwesternmost tip of the Nicoya Peninsula lies the Cabo Blanco Wildlife Reserve. Founded in 1963 by Danish immigrant Karen Mogensen, it was the first protected reserve in Costa Rica and paved the way for the development of the country´s impressive national park network. These 12 square kilometres of lowland tropical forest are swinging with howler monkeys and offer prime opportunities for spotting deer, sloths and coati. The forest-flanked beach here isn´t safe for swimming, but it´s a lovely spot to gaze forlornly out to sea.