Colourful heritage buildings in Chinatown

It seems a little weird that a city over 75% Chinese should boast a Chinatown – it’s a bit like referring to the “English quarter” of London.

And surprisingly, the entrance to Chinatown is not Chinese at all, but is marked by a Hindu temple – Singapore’s largest, the colourful Sri Mariamman. The Chinese Heritage Centre, in Pagoda Street, provides a great introduction to Chinatown, not neglecting the “four pillars” of the early Chinese settlers – opium, gambling, prostitution and the Kongsi, or secret societies.

For a more upmarket take on today’s Chinatown, venture into Ann Siang Road, with its lavishly refurbished old shop-houses, and home to many of the historic Hui Guan clan associations.

But it’s at night that Chinatown really comes alive. The corner of Smith Street and Trengganu Road becomes a giant outdoor restaurant, with tables and chairs spilling off the footpaths. Feast on such delicacies as Stingray with chilli, a specialty of the precinct. All the while, Chinese opera singers serenade the crowd from a nearby stage, while plate-jugglers ply their craft in the foreground.