The Åland Islands, between Sweden and Finland, nominally belong to Finland.
But to the Swedish-speaking Ålanders, such niceties are of little relevance. What really matters is their own proud history, which can be traced back over 6,000 years.
The Ålanders, who have their own flag and own postage stamps, even went so far as to print their own currency and start circulating it without telling anyone, until the Finnish government got wise.
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Åland’s Maritime Museum is one of the world’s finest, commemorating the days of merchant sailing ships, an era that lasted right through until 1949. Centrepiece of the museum is the sailing ship Pommern, which for over 70 years plied the Australia-Europe wheat run.
The Jan Karlsgården Open-air Museum, in the village of Sund, is also worth seeing. Or take in the ruins of Bomarsund Fortress, built by Tsarist Russia and blown up by the Brits in the Crimean War.
The old Russian customs post in Eckerö village dates from the years between 1809 and 1917 when Åland was part of the Russian Empire. Also in Eckerö, visit the excellent Museum of Hunting and Fishing.