A caiman surveys the scene from the sidelines

Photo: Julia Bollag

When in Rurrenabaque - the Bolivian Amazon's premier tourist town - odds are you'll be lured into taking one of the much-publicized 'Pampas Tours'.

The 'pampas' refers to the wetland savanna ecosystem that lies about three hours northeast of Rurrenabaque. This is the Amazon your mother always warned you about. Evil-eyed caimans line the murky riverbanks. Giant anacondas slither through swamps and chest-high grass. Insects reign supreme. Pink river dolphins glide through pirhana-infested waters morning is heralded by the eerie cries of distant monkeys. 

Much of the three-day pampas tour is spent gliding along the brown Yacuma River (a tributary of the Amazon) spotting wildlife from the safety of an over-sized canoe. Cappiburras (resembling giant guinea pigs) can be seen hanging out with their families at the water's edge while turtles sunbathe on nearby rocks and stray logs.

At some point, most tour groups stray into the soggy savanna grasslands to squelch through mud in a gallant search for anacondas and cobras.

Sleeping and eating is done in the tour company's rustic lodge accommodation, all equipped with mosquito nets.

Surely the highlight of the pampas tour is swimming with pink river dolphins as pesky  pirhanas try and take bites out of you (they're too small to ever succeed, but there's no stopping you from getting your own back by fishing one out for dinner). The caimans rarely get in on the fun, preferring to watch warily from the sidelines.