Salta is Argentina's sophisticated northern city

If you've arrived in Salta straight from Bolivia, you'll probably feel like you've landed in the most sophistication city on the planet. Swanky ice-cream parlours, handsome plazas, elegant colonial buildings, grand churches, pedestrianized shopping streets and oodles of boutiques herald your sudden arrival in the First World.

On the other hand, if you've travelled up here from southern Argentina, the city's Andean influence will be what makes a first impression. Indeed, in terms of geography and spirit, Salta recalls the Andean regions of Peru and Bolivia. The city is home to a large indigenous and mestizo population, lively folkloric bars, colourful fruit and vegetable markets and plenty of mountains, giant cacti and rafting opportunities in the surrounding region.

Many visitors use Salta as a base for day trips to the cute village of Cachi, the wine-growing region of Cafayate and to the technicoloured barren hillsides of Quebrada de Humahuaca north of Juyjuy. 

Within Salta itself, the city deserves at least two days of exploration. Plaza 9 de Julio is the stunning main square, flanked by classy cafes, upmarket clothing stores, an impressive church and two excellent museums dedicated to pre-Colombian culture.

Many of Salta's restaurants are first-rate and you get more bang for your buck here than in southern Argentina. Hence, Salta is the perfect place to splurge on a whopping hunk of cow flesh, or ice-cream-parlour-hop your way around the city.

At night, Salta's famous peñas are lively joints where you can suck back a beverage to the strains of live regional music.  

For dizzying views of the city and surrounding mountains, take the cable car to the well-manicured park at the summit of Cerro San Bernardo; or rather walk up the zig-zag path to the top as penance for all that ice-cream indulgence.