You hear it before you see it. The ferocious thunder of 1800 cubic metres of water per second plunging over a three-kilometre semi-circle of rock into a 70-metre high canyon. And then, the Garganta del Diablo ('the Devil's throat') comes into view, casting circular rainbows in the sunlight and spraying the thousands of tourists who line the barrier to stare into its abyss.
While the Garganta del Diablo is surely the most ferocious and deafening of the incredible Iguazu Falls, don't use up all your film just yet; the world's largest waterfalls has 249 other superlative-inducing cascades.
South America's single greatest wonder, and the world's most awesome waterfalls, Nancy Roosevelt was heard to remark 'Poor Niagara!' upon clapping eyes on it.
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Iguazu Falls straddles the borders of Argentina and Brazil and lies 19km upstream from the confluence of the Parana dn Iguazu rivers. While the Brazilian side offers panoramic views of the entire falls, the Argentinan side has a more impressive network of trails, allows more intimate access to the water and affords views of the falls from hundreds of different angles.
The falls are set in the 67,000-hectare Iguazu National Park, a subtropical rainforest with a series of well-maintained and (mostly) wheelchair-friendly catwalks and nature trails. Inside the park, there is a free ferry service out to a lush forested island and a train through the jungle to Garganta del Diablo. The park teems with birds, butterflies, tapirs, coatimundis, monkeys and giant cats.
For a few extra pesos, you can pay for the privilege of an underwear-soaking speedboat trip beneath the waterfalls. If you're around on the full moon, be sure to sign up for one of the romantic moonlight walking tours.
The only downside to the whole Iguazu experience is that you'll never be impressed by another waterfall again.
The town of Puerto Iguazu lies 18km northwest of the waterfalls, and along with a busy bus terminal, the town has a good selection of hotels and a smattering of restaurants. The poshest hotels lie on the road to the falls and the controversial Sheraton Hotel (some rooms with honeymoon-stealing views) lies in the park itself. During the day, buses shuttle twice an hour between Puerto Iguazu and the entrance to the park.