A young vendor at Makola Market, Accra

Photo: Graham Simmons

In downtown Accra, the visitor can walk anywhere without fear, day or night.

The much-touted slogan that Ghanaians are among the friendliest people on earth seems to be true – but it is a friendship both spontaneous and undemanding. Coming from other West African countries, where theft and confidence tricks are rife, the visitor is likely to find this a most pleasant surprise.

Makola market bustles in Accra's downtown core. In the many interlocking streets making up the market, you can buy a bewildering array of goods. One street sells footwear and the finest cloths from neighbouring Côte d’Ivoire, while in another street you find ghetto-blasters, old watch parts, kitchen utensils, luggage goods, plastic flowers... in fact, if it’s not here it probably hasn’t been manufactured or even designed yet.

In a compound off the main road of Accra, a woman pounds cassava in a mortar, making fufu dough for lunch. This, together with rice balls, will be served in a fiery curry sauce. Other popular dishes on offer include Jolloff rice (similarly spicy) and palmnut soup, another red-hot curry base to which chicken, fish or goat meat are added. But DO take care, and don’t patronise unhygienic-looking places.

The relatively fashionable suburb of Osu is a down-market version of Manhattan. On the coast south of Osu, Next Door (at Teshie Nungua Beach Resort) is the most fashionable eating and drinking place in town, popular with both locals and expats. At tables overlooking the ocean, fine food and cheap beer are served. As the band strikes up some top funk, local ladies in their best finery sway lithely to the beat – and the visitor is expected to join in!