The market in Ayacucho

Photo: Andrea Dunlap/Wikipedia

Holding a special place in the hearts of Peruvians, the Andean city of Ayacucho (`City of Blood') is the jewel in Peru's Central Highlands.

Historically plagued by poverty, isolation and in the 1980s and early '90s the Shining Path terrorist organization, Ayacucho has bounced back in recent years and is now linked by a paved road (565km) to Lima.

This university town has no less than 33 churches, myriad colonial mansions, anthropology museums, an artisan district, an excellent produce market and Semana Santa celebrations that are legendary across Latin America. 

Ayacucho is also close to the some of the most archaeologically important sites in Peru. With stone tools and giant animal remains found in the nearby cave of Pikimachay, archaeologists believe that this region has been occupied by humans for up to 20,000 years.

Inca ruins lie scattered in the surrounding countryside, while the 2,200 hectare Wari Archaeological Complex - the largest ancient urban centre in Peru - lies 22km north of the city. The site predates the Incas and was occupied by the Wari empire which flourished between the 6th and 11th centuries. 

For some of the best-value souvenir shopping in the country, head 32km northwest of Ayacucho to the village of Quinua, where you can browse artisan workshops and pick up ceramic pieces fresh off the press.

If you're travelling on from Ayacucho, Cusco is a further 23 hours by rough road.