Johannesburg is a dangerous but thrilling city

The melting pot of South Africa, Johannesburg is the teeming, lawless, artistic heartbeat of the country.

It is dangerous but thrilling city. Most tourists stick to the affluent northern suburbs of Norwood, Parkhurst and Melville. The latter is heaving with first-rate restaurants, galleries, bookshops and classy jazz clubs.

The city centre's reputation for danger has abated somewhat over the last few years. Still, it helps to check the local press to get the lie of the land and to remain extremely street savvy.

Many Johannesburg tour operators offer trips to Soweto, the vast black township on the edge of the city. On the way, you pass the gold mines, visit a witch doctor and get a tour of Jo'burg's downtown area. A visit to a 'drinking parlour' in Soweto - known as a shebeen - should certainly be on your to-do list.

Close to Johannesburg is the must-see UNESCO World Heritage site Kromdraai Palaeontological Reserve (also known as the Cradle of Humankind), which has a magnificent collection of hominid (early human) and animal fossils.

One word of warning here; if you are driving in Johannesburg, take good notice of the road signs... this writer drove 120km to get to the airport from his hotel - the real distance was 15km. The city has an elaborate ringroad system with a bewildering network of smaller motorways!