An artist paints away in Dar es Salaam

Far and away Tanzania's largest and most cosmopolitan city, Dar es Salaam might not be the seat of government (Dodoma, in the centre of the country, is), but it might as well be.

Dar es Salaam is the location of the country's main university, the operational headquarters for much of its industry, the site of its international airport and the major port - where Arab dhows rub shoulders with modern ferries to Zanzibar.

Yet for all it's importance there's not much reason for hanging around town. However, if you've never been to a major African city it's worth taking time to absorb the populous chaos in action; try seeking out Kariakoo Market to eye the immaculately displayed farm produce. But watch for pickpockets here and be wary of wandering around the city after dark as it has a reputation for muggings.

If you do find yourself in Dar for more than a day or two, seek out the good beaches just to the north and south of the city.